Land of the Howling Winds. Catanduanes.
- Lakwatserong Hampaslupa
- 1 day ago
- 15 min read
The province name Catanduanes was coined by Spanish conquistadors in 1573 for its local people's name katanduan or kasamdongan, meaning "a place where the tandu (a native beetle) and the samdong (a native species of tree) thrive in abundance."
The Isla de Cobos (as Spaniards call the island) is referred to as "The Happy Island", the island province lies to the east of Camarines Sur, across the Maqueda Channel, and famous for its churches, rock formations, colorful sunsets, crystal waters and beaches, and its people, the "Catandueños".
Day 1, March 27, 2024 Holy Wednesday.
The Journey to the Land of the Howling Winds.
We have been longing to visit and conquer the island of Catanduanes because this is one of the last 2 provinces to complete all the 39 provinces in Luzon, aside from Palawan.
This getaway ride was also our Visita Iglesia 2024, covering churches in Bicol Region, from Naga City to Catanduanes Island.
In just about 2 hours after leaving Angeles City, we were already in this becoming famous Bagong Lucena Welcome Arch - the gateway to Quezon and the Bicolandia's.
The weather was perfect so in just about an hour of smooth rides, we were already in Quezon National Forest Park commonly known as Bitukang Manok in Atimonan, Quezon.
This was one of the greatest achievements made possible by the former President Ferdinand E. Marcos, Sr. in 1969, connecting the Southern tagalog provinces to the Bicol region of Luzon.
We have passed this awesome landmark for too many times during our xx Lockdown Rides to Legazpi, Albay, and when we took the challenge for the Philippine Loop Adventure Tour.
This was indeed one of the most exciting sigsag road in Luzon that we'll ever get to ride as shortcut by traversing Mount Mirador.
Another 2 hours more and we were in the Gateway to Bicolandia Arch - which means we were entering the Bicol Region in just about 4 hours of rides from Angeles City.
In less than 2 hours, this Fuel Save Gas Depot was one of our favorites to rest and re-fuel.
I once took power nap here during our Philippine Loop Adventure Tour.
Since it's the Lenten Season for 2024, there were lots of riders going to their provinces in the Bicol Region.
Biggs in Sipucot, Camarines Sur was also a nice place to stop and fill gas, after less than an hour of rides from Ragay.
Another hour of rides and we were already in Naga City - the Pilgrim City and Queen City of Bicol.
The Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Parish was our very 1st church to visit in this Visita Iglesia 2024.
We were very tired in the rides under the extreme heat of the sun, but inside the church it offers a moment of silence and relief.
When doing this type of activities, a long ride on two wheels for several hours, it really needs the blessing from God in order to be safe.
Also in Naga City is the The Minor Basilica and National Shrine of Our Lady of Peñafrancia, our 2nd church to visit.
It was here that my beloved mother (peace be upon her) use to bring me when I was very young.
We were only commuting by bus with little money just to witness the procession of the Our Lady of Peñafrancia during her feast.
My Mama (peace be upon her) always told me the miraculous power of the devotion to Our Lady of Peñafrancia.
Somewhere in Ligao, Albay, the perfect cone of Mount Mayon can already be seen if you are lucky.
According to folklore, the perfect cone can only be seen easily by those with good heart and often covered by the clouds for those that are pure.
The Daraga Church was very special to me and Gagay - we use to visit this church without meeting and knowing each other when we were kids.
This is one of my most favorite church in the entire Philippines (our 3rd church), with one of the most relaxing vibes inside and the beauty of the scenery when outside.
The bell tower was so magnificent to see from a distance.
On the northern side is the awesome full view of Mount Mayon, as if you are standing on its center line.
About 30km rides from Daraga Church, we found ourselves in the Tabacco Port's Coast Guard Sub-Station, getting the clearance to board the roro to San Andres Port, Catanduanes.
We were lucky that we manage to catch up with M/V Calixta VI operated by Regina Shipping Lines.
The bill of lading for a motorcycle is PhP1,183 from Tabacco Port to San Andres Port, not including the passenger and rider.
The terminal fee is PhP30 each person - which means Php60 for the 2 of us.
And another additional fee of PhP65 which I think is for loading the motorcycle considered as Type 1.
The total fee for boarding the roro with pillion to Catanduanes is less than PhP2,000, 1 way - and it's even more expensive if your port of destination is Virac Port.
On board, the roro is clean and there were seats to take some rest while crossing the Maqueda Channel.
My maxi-scooter was safely tied to the anchor points on the boat's floor and stairway - this is the safest place when you are boarding a motorcycle in roro - choose the side with anchor points.
Day 2, March 28, 2024 Maundy Thursday
Knocking into Catanduanes Island.
In less than 3 hours of boat ride, the lights from San Andres Port were getting bigger by the second.
This was our very first time in Catanduanes Island - the feeling was unbelievable and so thrilling.
The water was very clam during our crossing, the port in San Andres was also very quiet, and all the activities subsides immediately after all the passengers were offloaded.
At this point, we were already very hungry, and it was almost past 10pm in the evening with a bit if rain drops.
There was no suitable place to stay in San Andres, so we were forced to ride to Virac on a very dark sigsag road while the rain was heavily pouring - and avoid staying in beach resorts in between San Andres and Virac - there is no point.
Luckily for us, Queen Maricel Inn in Virac was perfect for our budget, the room were beyond my expectations and were very flexible - perhaps the best place to stay in Virac for its value for money.
Aside from their menu, the in-house cook is willing to prepare anything that you would like to buy from the nearby meat and seafood market.
The rooftop has a swimming pool enough for groups or friends - and from there, you are on the vantage point overlooking the capital town of the province.
Day 2, March 28, 2024 Maundy Thursday.
It was a rainy first morning in Catanduanes, and we went to the Metro Tent in the center of the town in Virac.
We took our breakfast under the huge tent - it was kind of unique there.
In the nearby Virac Town Center Shopping Mall, there was a shop that customizes shirts known as Oraon Shirt City - it was there that we decided to print the very first Iceman Adventures shirt - and present it to a very special person Catanduanes.
After a call, we visited our relative in mother side in the nearby Camp Francisco Camacho and met the camp commander and intelligence chief of the Province of Catanduanes, Police LtCol. Josefino C. Titong, Jr.
We presented to him our first ever Iceman Adventures shirt - custom made by Oragon Shirt City in Catanduanes.
It is time now to visit the beautiful churches in Catanduanes - beginning with the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (our 4th church), situated in the center of the capital town of Virac.
The Cathedral is the most beautiful in Catanduanes - the architecture and design were so amazing...!
The Immaculate Conception Church in Virac was raised into a cathedral simultaneous with the erection of the Diocese of Virac, on August 27, 1974.
The Cathedral remains a lasting proof to the deep faith of "Viracnons" and is an architectural heritage that is constantly being adored by the locals and visitors alike.
It was about lunch time when we went back to the Metro Tent and found the Sizzling House appealing.
We tried to order the best sellers according to the crew - the sizzling t-bone adorned with gravy sauce and the sizzling pusit with achara and tomatoes slices.
Paired it with the cold lime juice and it will bring your lunch unbeatable for that time.
We were stoked by how it was prepared, plus the ambience on the 2nd floor with the breeze of the airconditioned unit on a very hot day in Virac.
After the sumptuous lunch, we visited the Catanduanes Provincial Capitol Office Building - the Kilometer Zero marker in the island.
Then, we went on to the next town of Bato in the east of the main island.
St. Anthony of Padua Parish Church in Cabugao, Bato, Catanduanes was our 5th church to visit - it is situated just beside the main road going to Bato, or Baras towns.
Founded in 1911 and the smallest parish in the whole diocese, the internal beauty of this church was beyond expectation, and it feels like it's the altar of a bigger church.
Flanked by 2 grottos, the surroundings of the church were full of floras and faunas.
This was our time to offer candle, pray, and make a wish, whenever visiting a church for the first time.
This Bato Bridge was a very important landmark in Catanduanes - it is that if you turn right, you will be leading to the eastern seaside road up to the north - passing Baras all the way up to Gigmoto - or, straight and you will find yourself in Viga passing San Miguel.
St. John the Baptist Parish Church - Libod, Bato, Catanduanes (our 6th church) - was seen so amazing to view from afar.
The Bato Church is the oldest church in the province. Constructed from coral limestone and mortar between 1830 and 1883.
The ramp in front of the main door leading to the altar was obviously for letting the horse carriage carrying the image of saints enter the church.
The atmosphere inside the church was very relaxing.
And from the inside of the church, the thickness of the wall seems so unbelievable.
It was built to withstand strong typhoons and has endured many natural calamities.
An altar with the image of a saint was dogged on its wall - a testament on how thick the wall was made.
The church was built like a fortress towering over the cliff above the road before anyone reach the town of Bato.
A few minutes away from Bato Church is the Batalay Shrine - the site of the First Cross in Catanduanes, located in Brgy. Batalay in the town of Bato, Catanduanes.
It is believed to have been constructed over the grave of the shipwrecked Fr. Diego de Herrera of the Augustinian Order in 1576,
and well believed that a spring of clear water sprouted near the cross having healing powers.
The Diocesan Shrine of the Holy Cross (our 7th church) has a very simple yet reserved atmosphere from the inside.
The entrance to the site prior to taking the stairway leading to the chapel has many food stalls awaiting tourist for some newly cooked street foods, local delicacies, and variety of cold beverages.
Going back to Virac passing Bato Church, Bato Bridge, and St. Anthony of Padua Parish Church in the southern seaside road, the weather was perfect, and the ocean was so calm.
Arriving in Virac in the inner streets of Cavinitan and very near the airport, the Diocesan Chapel of the Black Nazarene (our 8th church) is also the Chapel of Saint Rafael the Archangel.
The internal of this chapel was modern, simple, well lighted, and very appealing for those that will visit to pray solemnly and feel the inner calmness.
The Black Nazarene adorned with expensive flowers was being prepared for the Good Friday procession later in the afternoon.
After visiting the 8th Church, we bought shrimps and requested the in-house cook to prepared 2 dishes with it, for our dinner with beers.
Queen Maricel Inn was so perfect because it has a veranda on the 2nd floor wherein it was so nice to dine in, drink beers, and have fun out in the open.
The cook prepared stir-fried garlic shrimp, and shrimp in coconut milk top with potato slices and Sili leaves - it was so delicious with ice cold beers.
Day 3, March 29, 2024 Good Friday.
The Start of the Island Rides.
In the early morning of March 30, 2024, Black Saturday and our 3rd day in Catanduanes, Kuya Juntits (as his close friends call him in Catanduanes) arrived to join us for breakfast, as he promised. On top of his busy activities, he gave us time to accommodate us.
On this very exciting 3rd day, we are going to visit 3 more churches, visit Binurong Point, and visit the famous Puraran Beach in Baras in the eastern side of the island.
Going back to San Andres from Virac, we visited the St. Andrew the Apostle Parish Church, in Divino Rostro, San Andres, Catanduanes - our 9th church for this Visita Iglesia 2024 which is very near the San Andres Port.
In the inside of this church, you will instantly notice the varnish wooden ceiling from the door up to the main altar which was so beautiful.
On the side, there was an adoration chapel where we had the time of quiet prayer and meditation in the presence of Jesus (no talking).
Adoration Chapels are the quietest place in a church for adoring Jesus in the Holy Eucharist.
One of the most special churches in Catanduanes - Our Lady of Sorrows of Batong Paluway does not have extravagant altar nor century old walls but rather a place for devotion though, for miracle believing person.
The Chapel of Batong Paluway (our 10th church) houses a river stone that has the image of Our Lady of Sorrows and believed to be so miraculous by the local people.
At present, one can observe the image with bare eyes.
The image is etched on a piece of stone that has gradually increased in size - the original size of the stone was only 1.5cm x 2cm - and after more than one hundred years, the size increased 3x to an approximation size of 4.5cm x 6cm.
The Luyang Cave is situated in Barangay Lictin, San Andres, Catanduanes which houses innumerable bats and titanic rock formations - and although I love to see it, I have a speluncaphobia - thus, we headed back to Virac.
At the center of the intersecting Quezon Avenue, Rizal Avenue, and Virac diversion road is the landmark called the Catanduanes World War II Memorial Fountain - not the Jollibee, hahaha..!
This landmark fountain was built in the lasting memory of the unknown fallen Filipino soldiers of Catanduanes during World War II.
Situated at the middle of the town proper of Baras, the Church of St. Lawrence the Martyr or Baras Church, is guarding the people's faith for centuries.
The simplicity and tranquility inside the church is undeniable - it offers instant calmness in the mind and heart.
"Badas" its original name, has a long history with Capitan Catalino Catakutan tortured and chained by the neck during the Spanish times.
Guinsaanan Beach, Baras, Catanduanes
There was no better happiness than meeting a fellow Philippine Looper in a place so unexpected to see one.
Catanduanes is not along the regular way of the Philippine Loopers - typically bypassing the province from Legazpi City to Matnog port, and then to Allen port, in Northern Samar.
Guinsaanan Beach is the take off point for hiking to Binurong Point's tip of the high cliffs meeting the seawater.
Instead of hiking to the tip of the cliff, we opted to fly the drone and see in birds eye view the awesome beauty of Binurong Point.
This bird's eye view was so awesome, and only by flying drone that one will capture the awesome tips of Binurong Point that looks like dragon claws.
This was one of the best moments in Catanduanes - being in one of the prime spots in the province.
Puraran Surf Beach, Baras, Catanduanes
This is one of the well-known beach in Catanduanes - Puraran Beach is a private beach that is known for surfing.
There were surf boards for rent in the beach, and it's not that expensive.
There were "duyans" that will allow you to rest after swimming or surfing.
Looking from below, you will see a net on the 2nd floor that will also be fun to rest with friends.
On the right side of the beach is the camping area below the trees that provides ample shades for the campers.
At the middle is the rocky formation that beacons you to come and enjoy the splash of seawater.
It was nice to have monkey banana's while drinking cold drinks and watching the waves from afar.
After the bananas, it was a freshly cooked fries and beers.
We were totally impressed with the beach coffee and resto that has a nice view of the entire beach.
Puraran Surf Beach is owned by the Soria family - Ma'am Cecilia Estrada Soria told us that originally it was only a family refuge by his father Jeorge.
The resort was continuously from being a family place only, to a public that anyone can enjoy for a hefty fee for the free access to all the amenities available.
The beautiful beach was named Puraran from the Pura trees abundant in the area.
After a few hours of enjoying the breeze of air in Puraran Surf Beach, we ride back to Virac and the usual Jollibee chicken joy meals.
Going back to the hotel, we drink some few beers to call it a wonderful day.
Day 4, March 30, 2024 Black Saturday.
Leaving the Happy Island.
Saying goodbye to Catanduanes after 4 days is not easy - but we had to catch the roro in San Andres so that we can reach Daet City on this beautiful day.
Our total bill in Queen Maricel Inn was not that expensive - the cost of beers, dishes, and request for cooking prawns was considerable.
The staffs too were very polite and so accommodating - the hotel is highly recommended when in Virac.
The San Andres port was already very busy when we arrived from Virac - the roro was loading passengers and vehicles - bound to leave in less than an hour.
The crew of M/V Regina Calixta VII helped us to position and tied Xcy - they even noticed my Philippine Looper vest, which they requested for a selfie onboard.
It was funny to remember that the roro serves "Turon" - only to remember our Mindoro Island Loop with ATAT riders we later called "Tropang Turon" after a surprisingly delicious turon on board the roro from Batangas port to Puerto Gallera's Balatero port.
Xcy was securely tied in between two more motorcycles which worries me a lot.
The weather on that day was perfect and the sea was very calm.
We ate our breakfast onboard - outside the passenger's airconditioned room.
A few more hours and we're back at Tobacco port in Albay.
We wasted no time and ride fast from Tobacco City, reaching Naga City on a smooth and very safe rides.
This bridge in Naga City was a famous landmark - it was here that the music videos of Moro Beats was filmed - and only here that we were able to buy a few kilos of fresh pili nuts.
We were also delighted to buy the "siling demonyo" famous for having high capsaicin (the chemical compound that causes spicy heat).
We rested here in Sipocot Junction - the road that will decide whether you are going Daet City or on to Ragay.
Daet City, Camarines Norte.
A few more hours of rides and we were already in the beautiful City of Daet.
At the center of the city in Central Plaza Mall was the newly opened Kuya Jay restaurant - we tried their Bicol Express and Pakbet with a twist - cooked very weird but so delicious.
Although I was in Daet City when I was very young with my Mama, I was surprised how beautiful Daet City become - the city become prosperous with so many business establishments.
The Lighthouse Hotel Resort is one of the best places to stay in Aquino Blvd., Daet, Camarines Norte.
This iconic entrance leading to the main guest house suggest that you are not going to have a cheap night to stay here.
The entire place was very clean which makes it a 4-star hotel just in front of Bagasbas Beach.
Bagasbas Surf Beach, Daet, Camarines Norte
The Bagasbas Beach is the surfing capital of the North of Bicolandia - it has short but powerful waves that will excite a surfer of any level.
You can access Calaguas Island from here although it will take you more time than when you board the boat from Paracale, Camarines Norte.
Our short overnight stay in Daet City was a blast - I enjoyed roaming around the city looking for something to eat - then a few drink beers in the hotel were the staff bought us pork liempo.
Day 5, March 31, 2024 Easter Sunday.
The Rides to Home Sweet Home.
This was the very exciting day to reach home safely - so we cruise smoothly passing town in Quezon - only to stop for refueling.
Well-rested in Daet, we were a bit fast reaching gas refill again in Pagbilao, Quezon - then to Ibaan, Batangas Star Toll exit, to SLEX, to Skyway Stage 3, NLEX, and then to Angeles City.
Holy Rosary Parish Church, Angeles City
It was mid-afternoon of the easter Sunday that we reach the Holy Rosary Parish Church, at the middle of Angeles City.
Truth be told that without the blessings from almighty God, these kinds of very long rides for several days wouldn't be possible.
After 5 days of smooth, safe, but very tiring rides, visiting 12 churches for the Visita Iglesia 2024, witnessing again the magnificent Mt. Mayon, and then conquering Catanduanes Island, plus the amazing experience in Naga City and Daet City - all for 1,703km + 2x roro rides.
Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Parish, Naga City
The Minor Basilica and Shrine of Our Lady of Peñafrancia, Naga City
Our Lady of the Gate Parish Church, Daraga, Albay
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Virac, Catanduanes
St. Anthony of Padua Parish Church, Cabugao, Bato, Catanduanes
St. John the Baptist Parish Church, Bato, Catanduanes
Batalay Shrine, Bato, Catanduanes
Diocesan Chapel of the Black Nazarene, Virac, Catanduanes
St. Andrew the Apostle Parish Church, San Andres, Catanduanes
Our Lady of Sorrows of Batong Paluway, San Andres, Catanduanes
Church of St. Lawrence the Martyr, Baras, Catanduanes
Holy Rosary Parish, Angeles City
Catanduanes is a breathtaking island to visit and experience - we truly encourage everyone to visit the island for its churches, beaches, rocky formations, and blend in with the amazing people.
Byahe lang…!
2024 March 27~31 | Virac, Catanduanes
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